“Once in a while it really hits people that they don’t have to experience the world in the way they have been told to.” – Alan Keightley

Friday, January 18, 2013

Month At Site, Christmas, New Years!


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Before I start, I need to recap the most important things that have happened recently that you all already know about, but I find these things out after-the-fact. The Cards whooped Florida’s ass in the Sugar Bowl! Teddy Bridgewater is my (second biggest) hero and he’s going to do big things. The Redskins went on a streak-and-a-half and won the NFC East outright! Unfortunately my real hero, RGIII, hurt his knee and we lost in the first round. That is still one hell of a turn-around! Lastly, the Cards are tearing it up right now and whooped up on some Kentucky ass! I’m pretty sure when I post this on Thursday we will be #1! I heard the Cards ended up like 12th in football, which is garbage as to how badly we dominated UF. I couldn’t be prouder of my teams (excluding the awful Wizards)! Now on to the blog post:

Wow, a month at site as of today. The days are long as hell, but the time does seem to be moving rather quickly. Of course, it helps when you have something to look forward to like… leaving site. Seems awful, but it is unfortunately true. This is definitely challenge. Things that have never been challenging for me, like talking to people for example, are the hardest things in the world. It is actually a struggle to get myself to leave my house everyday. I spend an unruly amount of time in my house reading. The language barrier is awful, especially since my tutor left for Abidjan, Ivory Coast a little less than a month ago. My counterpart could take over, but I would probably shoot him, or me. Besides, he’s illiterate and that would not bode well for a tutor. So until my first tutor returns, hopefully within the next few weeks, I will continue to struggle with communicating with anybody.
I am surprised at just how few people actually speak French in this village or Didyr, the next one over. It is kind of crazy. What I have learned about myself is that I can sit inside all day and do absolutely nothing, and make the time pass by faster. I have now finished The Art of Success 2.0 by Rick Pitino, a motivational book given to me by my buddy Dave Madden before leaving, The Last Hunger Season, An African Farming Community on the Brink of Change given to me by my Uncle Tom, which was surprisingly relevant to where I am and also rather infuriating as it is about the significantly better off nation of Kenya while Burkina seems all but ignored, and today I finished The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo, which was awesome. I am excited to watch the movie to see how they match up. It is ridiculous that I, a true advocate for watching TV over reading, spend a majority of my time with my nose in a book. I know I made note of this in my last blog post, but I still cannot really get over it.
Anyways, I thought I’d get into what happened over Christmas and New Years and such. I decided to stay in village for Christmas, as it occurred a mere ten days post-moving in. It was anything particularly exciting. I hung out in my house in the evening, and then at around 21:00 I followed my counterpart, Pima, and his friends into Didyr. We went to a bar and sat under a tree on a night with almost a full moon. I was confused as to why on a night when there was actually natural light, we stayed underneath a tree in complete darkness, but that is just the mindset of the people here I guess. We drank a couple beers, in basically awkward silence, and when they spoke I could not understand. After like three beers or something, I went with Pima to go find a chicken to buy, cooked, and ready to eat. After like the fourth place we eventually found a place that had a Pintade, or Guinea Fowl, ready to go. I paid for it, and when we arrived back at the first bar we began to eat. It was gone within four minutes. The Africans attacked that thing like zombies; it was ridiculous. I was not particularly pleased as it was not cheap and I barely got to eat any, but at least I got a beer or two paid for in the evening. At 2:00 my time, I found out the temperature in Didyr was 72°F and I was FREEZING. I had my hood up and my arms folded into my sweatshirt, which thank goodness I brought. Imagine that; 72° on Christmas and you are absolutely freezing. I guess this country really has affected me! We returned at like 3:00, slightly inebriated, and I went to sleep.

Christmas Day Dolo!
Christmas Day was nothing too special either. I went into Didyr again, this time with only my new friend, Basolé Navila, and we drank dolo and beer. I ate a salad, which was actually delicious, though definitely not a good idea... I’ll get to that. On the way home, we stopped at the Mayor’s house, where he was having a gathering with all of the fat cats in the village. He had a feast of salad (again not a good idea, but very tasty) and pork. He gave me free beer, and even some Jack Daniel’s! It was like being in America. I got home, watched a Harold & Kumar Christmas, and went to sleep.
The next few days I was plagued. I am convinced it was from the salad. The water they use to wash salad is not treated, and as I ate three plates of it, I believe I paid the price. I felt like garbage for the next four days and became best friends with my latrine, which just seems to be an overall theme of Peace Corps. Then it was time to go to Ouagadougou for New Years, which was a much-needed break.
I biked thirty kilometers on the morning of December 30th. When I arrived in Réo I was greeted by a smiling Kelly, a friend from training. I was not in a particularly wonderful mood. My tire popped halfway through the ride and I walked for about fifteen minutes until I found somebody to help me fix it (it is since popped three more times and I can do it on my own). Of course, I was on top of a mountain, or very large hill, when it popped, and I ended up having to finish the bike ride in the noonday African sun, which sucked. My day was turned right around when Kelly and I went out in Réo.
Réo is a nifty town. It has 60,000 inhabitants and electricity basically everywhere, sans Kelly’s house of course, thanks Peace Corps. We went to a little restaurant and ate pork, and then a bar that had freaking Heineken! We had a couple rounds and continued to another place. There we met with her counterpart Margo, who is awesome, and bought a cooked chicken. Funny story when we were sitting there waiting for Margo to arrive. Kelly and I were discussing how hard Lyélé is and I was telling her the words that I could remember off the top of my head. I thought I remembered dog, but was not positive if I had it right. When the waitress came over to give us a round, I asked her in French if kouli was dog in Gouransi (the overall language, Lyélé is just a local dialect). Unfortunately, there was a miscommunication there and she informed me that they only have chicken there. In other words she was telling me that they didn’t serve dog there. I felt like moron, but I am very confident I asked the question correctly, she is just not a big French speaker as is normal in the area.
Anyways, we ate chicken and chatted with Margo and drank beer. I learned that Pima is almost impossible to understand because things went very smoothly with Margo and her French. By the time Kelly and I left, we were good and drunk and returned back to her abode. The next day we got a ride from somebody at her office (she works with a real organization; they have Wi-Fi!) into Koudougou, where we made our bus to Ouaga by about 47 seconds. The ride was smooth, minus the tire popping, something totally not out of the ordinary. You know it happens a lot when they had that bad boy fixed in less than five minutes. We arrived in Ouaga, went to the bureau to pick up packages and mail, ate schawarma, and continued to the Transit House (house with 35 spots owned by and solely for PCVs). I took a glorious and much needed shower, remember my shower usually involves a bucket and a plastic goblet, and we went out.
We ate dinner at Moulin Rouge and took full advantage of the 1,000-cfa liter beers, and then headed over to Bar-K (remember barka is thank you in Mooré and K is pronounced ka in French, great play on words I think I touched on before). I had a horrible headache and wasn’t alone in feeling like crap. I had a friend bring me Tylenol and powered through to midnight, when we all took a shot of Tequila. My liver just loves me. Then we went to Calypso, the same bar we went to on swear-in/my birthday. The music was nowhere near as good as they stuck to the crappy African techno and we were tired, but it was still quite fun. We returned back to the transit house and conked out. I slept on a couch about half as long as I am. It was really comfortable.
The next day Ouagadougou was like a scene out of I Am Legend. The entire city seemed to be shut down, deserted. A group of us meandered about town for a while doing the most ridiculous things you can think of entertainment. We went into a hotel and sat on their couches and stared at their pool. We hung out in their bar, again sitting on couches and never ordered a drink. We marveled at their elevator, the first any of us had seen in the country. We went into a gas station for a good fifteen minutes and were amazed at how nice it was. A gas station. They must have thought we were nuts. We walked for probably six miles or so in search of a place that was open and had beer. We finally enjoyed a round and then discovered the restaurant we planned our dinner around was also closed. Frustrated, we walked back to the main stretch of restaurants, where we knew a couple were open at this time. We stopped in what turned out to be an awesome place. It was owned by a French guy and was definitely a date place. A Bob Dylan album played, all in French. We drank beer on tap and Screwdrivers with mango juice instead of OJ. It was great, but the food was pricey so we continued on to another restaurant. I was on a fruity drink kick, so I got a Peña Colada, and it was delicious. I ate a pizza and was uncomfortably full. We returned to the Transit House and we were beat.
I slept outside one night, it was cold, needed extra clothing
The next day I shopped for food, which was completely necessary and rewarding. That was about it. The next day Kelly and I returned to Koudougou and I sucked it up and spent a lot of my monthly allowance on a solar panel, battery, and a converter. It was well worth the money, though now I am living very uncomfortably for the rest of this month. The solar panel is 50 watts, the battery 12v26ah, and the converter is up to 500 watts. It was a great idea. I now have a means to charge whatever I need to everyday, and a light at night that makes cooking a lot more enjoyable and a ton easier. I plan on buying another light for my bedroom when I have more money. I am also going to look into a solar battery powered cooler I have seen for when I want a cold beer or friends come in town (which will be rare, especially if I don’t have that). They are small, but it seems worth it regardless. Lastly, I may eventually invest in an Internet key. I don’t know how I feel about being fully connected with everything at home. It’d probably make me really homesick, but it’d be really nice to know what is happening in the world, especially in the world of sports!
The solar panel has made me relax considerably. Just knowing I can charge something is a very liberating feeling. If I’m going crazy, I can hole up and watch a movie or TV. I still watch something every night before sleeping (right now I’m on an Arrested Development and Eastbound & Down binge), and I don’t see that changing anytime soon.
Lastly, I feel completely useless here! I know I’ve only been here a month and I know of a bunch of different things that I plan on doing with or introducing to this community. However, as of now I feel about as useful as tits on a nun. Like I said before, I spend a lot of time in my house. I have not yet learned the language, nor done a project. I will likely wait until February before I start teaching how to and manufacturing soap myself. I need to get some capital in my account before I go spending a bunch. I assume after that things will be a little bit easier, as it will give us something to do together and my credibility will be a little higher. This can also start producing money towards their long-term goal of installing an advanced irrigation system. That doesn’t mean anything for the next half a month though. I’ll still feel useless!
Anyways, I’m going to Ouaga on Thursday to meet up with a bunch of friends from training. It should definitely be a good time. My friend Todd is bringing a bottle of Rum brewed by a hotel in Bobo-Dioulasso. I hate Rum, but I’ll give it a go. We’re also having a Mexican night, so Margarita’s and tacos will be had. I’m really looking forward to it. Then it will be a long stretch at site until I return to Ouagadougou (hopefully) to watch the Superbowl. Some things I can miss… The Superbowl, and the Cards if they make it into the Final Four are not included. I will kill somebody to see the Cards win it all in real-time. 
Little Ellie and my dog, Taco
Taco and I!
Sketchiest dumbbell ever that I constructed

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